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第42章 珠宝首饰(4)

The 19th century continued with a succession of famous commissions for Royalty and the aristocracy, with designs of splendor, opulence and craftsmanship. Many commissions can be found in museums, national institutions and important private collections around the world. Since 1843, when Queen Victoria bestowed the honour of Crown Jeweller on the company, Garrard has served six successive monarchs. One of the most enduring images of Queen Victoria is of her wearing a small diamond crown made by Garrard in 1870.

Ceremony and pageantry has always been a key element in the companys heritage as well as the association with great sporting events. Spectacular trophies and centrepieces display excellent examples of superb silver craftsmanship. Robert Garrards hallmark of 1848 is found on the well-known Americas Cup. For modern day sports enthusiasts, other presentation trophies include: the Dubai World Cup, the Cricket World Cup and the Premier League Trophy.

In recent years, Jade Jagger takes up the post of creative director in Garrard, successfully into the youth market. At the same time, it opens up many other markets, such as clock silverware, furniture and accessories which makes the products more diversified.

杰拉德珠宝品牌成立于1735年,曾被维多利亚女王颁赐Crown Jeweller(皇冠珠宝商)的美誉,而且多次为王室人员设计加冕皇冠,地位举足轻重。近年来,杰拉德珠宝成功打入年轻人市场。

19世纪时仍延续着皇室和贵族委托制作的风格,设计美艳、奢华,技艺精湛。其中很多作品都能够在世界各地的博物馆、国家机构及个人珍藏中找到。自1843年维多利亚女王授予公司皇冠珠宝商的荣誉开始,杰拉德已连续为六代君主效力。其中维多利亚女王佩戴时间最长的小钻石皇冠就是1870年杰拉德为她制作的。

仪式和盛典一直是公司历史上的重要元素,也包括盛大的体育赛事。精美的奖杯与中心装饰是展示其精湛银工艺的绝好例子。1848年,罗伯特·杰拉德最好的证明就在着名的美洲杯上对于现代体育爱好者来说,其他展示包括Dubai World Cup, the Cricket World Cup, the Premier League Trophy。

近年来,杰拉德请来设计师Jade Jagger出任创作总监,成功打入年轻人市场。同时开拓了钟表、银器、家具及配饰等市场,令产品更加多元化。

5.(意大利)玳美雅 Damiani

品牌名片

品类:珠宝、腕表

标志风格:华丽、优雅

创始人:

恩里科·格拉西·达米阿尼

(Enrico Grassi Damiani)

诞生地:意大利

诞生时间:1924年

玳美雅珠宝所表现的传统代表了一种独一无二的遗产,由激情和对细节关注所筑成,引以为豪并子孙相传。这是共识的一种哲学,也是珠宝的生命源泉:至今所有产品还是意大利手工制作。

品牌阅读

Design of the highest level, taste and masterly techniques create unmistakably unique jewelry, examples of aesthetic perfection, beauty and harmony. Some are true masterpieces of master goldsmith expertise at the highest level: the Damiani Masterpieces have attained numerous awards and acknowledgements over the years, in particular, the Diamonds International Awards, the World Jewelry Oscars, rewarding the best design and best diamond jewelry creations. Damiani is the only International brand to have won 18, an unequalled record.

Valenza, homeland of the best Italian jewelry tradition: this is where the story of a leading brand of top end Italian made jewelry begins. It was 1924 when Enrico Grassi, founder of the family of jewelers, began designing and creating jewels with diamonds; small masterpieces destined for the noble families of the time, for which he soon became the trusted jeweler. For all the following years, Damiani was acclaimed in the Italian jewelry sector as the highest expression of classicism, balance and preciousness.

Damiano, Enricos son, continued the family tradition, driven by great creativity and a strong entrepreneurial spirit: he created jewels with an unmistakable style that has remained unaltered over time, made significant investments in research and for the creation of new solutions. Through a perfect combination of tradition and innovation, Damiani products acquired increasing fame in Italy and across the world.

Starting in the 1980s, pioneer in the jewelry sector, the company innovated its communication style introducing highly prestigious testimonials, photographed by the worlds greatest photographers.

Faithful to its heritage, the third generation also followed in the family steps with passion, creativity and commitment, expanding the development process that has enabled the shift from family business to organized corporation through the opening over the years of international subsidiaries and boutiques in the worlds most famous and prestigious locations.

In 2007, the Group went public and was listed in the Italian stock exchange; today the Damiani brand is leader of the Italian jewelry market sector and is acknowledged worldwide as a synonym of top-end Italian style tradition.

Celebrities like Isabella Rossellini, Brad Pitt, Nastassja Kinski, Chiara Mastroianni, Milla Jovovich, Jennifer Aniston, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sophia Loren and Sharon Stone have collaborated with Damiani, which can claim princesses and prime ministers among its clients.

Damiani jewelry features the excellent quality acknowledged worldwide and distinguishable for the sublime shapes, the quality of gems, the excellence of craftsmanship and the timeless elegance that it bestows on those wearing these pieces. Each jewel comes to life through the commendable craftsmanship ability and the endless passion of master goldsmiths, enclosing within all the artistic value of the best Italian jewelry tradition.

Over the years the Damiani Group received many prestigious Italian and International acknowledgements and is still the unmatched record holder of 18 Diamonds International Awards, in addition to the four attained with the Calderoni brand, acquired by the Group in 2006. The first Diamonds International Award attributed to a Damiani creation was in 1976, the year in which the award was assigned for the design of the jewel “Bocca di Squalo - Shark Mouth”: a bracelet of inestimable value in platinum and yellow gold entirely brightened by a pavè of white and jonquille diamonds, designed by Gabriella Damiani.

From 1976, 18 Damiani creations have been awarded for the very high quality and refined craftsmanship and incomparable finish: collier, bracelets, rings and earrings by Damiani with a unique design, stemmed from the passion and high-end jewelry tradition of which Damiani represents one of the highest expressions.

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